Mexico.
I have been there more times than I can count. I have lived there, studied there, fell in love with Spanish there (it became my minor in college because of a January I spent in Cuernavaca my freshman year…surprising to a young women who literally saw no use for the language prior to the trip), had my first kiss there, developed my passion for different cultures and traditions there, and learned my famous guacamole recipe there.
Besides my home country, Mexico – its people, vibrancy, passion, religious devotion, complexity and simplicity – has been most responsible for shaping the woman who started this blog over 8 years and 51 countries ago (me!).
I went back to Mexico this past January because a dear friend invited me to her wedding in Cabo San Lucas (Note: It wasn’t a destination wedding, she and her now-hubby actually live there!). I usually go to Paris in January, but the promise of a sunset beach wedding with warm breezes, sand between my toes and a margarita in my hand definitely trumped the frozen tundra of Europe (albeit I did miss the Burgundy wines, crusty baguettes and my sweet friends).
This visit, like every visit to the neighboring country in the south, left an indelible imprint in my memories and on my heart. During the nearly 3 week visit, I traversed 6 cities and established many more meaningful, lasting connections with both locals and non-locals alike.
While I likely have bitten off more than I can chew in recapping the entire trip in this one blog, I wanted to highlight the women I knew or met along the way that made my time extra special and inspiring (some of whom you can find their creations in my shop).
Here’s to them!
**Reader’s Note: As a single woman there was, of course, a lovely local gentleman who made an impression more than most, and I will weave some of our tale into the photos below. However it isn’t one that ends happily…but, and I should know this by now, I suppose not all such stories are meant to end that way.**
Onward.
CABO SAN LUCAS
Inspiring Women: My girlfriends, *Bride* Natalie and Jane
After 2 hours in the passport control line at the Cabo airport, this was my first ever non-airport or shuttle van view of Cabo!
This perfect sunset was seen from the villa my girlfriend and *bride*, Natalie, rented in the hills of Cabo. Along with it being the weekend residence for herself, her groom, Steve, and her family, it was also the post-wedding reception location.
The stuff Mexican dreams are made of, fresh guac and margaritas!
Besides the view and a warm hug from my girlfriend, these treats greeted me upon touchdown. Prior to the wedding weekend, I hadn’t had the privilege to meet her fiancé. So before the onslaught of her family’s arrival, these Mexican vacation staples paired well with “get to know Steve” conversation (he was a true gentleman and gem btw).
The Girlfriend Triumvirate Together Again in Mexico!
Jane, Natalie and Me…in that order!
Jane missed happy hour at the villa, but came ready to get her Cabo on at the groom’s dinner at Bar Esquina (BEST beet salad I have ever had)!
After a delicious meal and kissing the bride and her family good night, Jane and I took to the clubs of Cabo. The boys of San Diego at Squid Roe couldn’t hold our attention for long (despite several jello shots…the first of which resulted in a bit of PTSD for me when the server shoved my face into her décolletage…bizarre), so we traded them in for local boys from Mexico City at Mandala. Their latino charm kept us on the dance floor until 4:30am! Alejandro, Javier and Alberto were the perfect re-introduction to Mexico after a few years absence.
They also reintroduced Jane and I to sleeping in until noon!
The beach next to our resort, Solmar.
Prospects of walking along a sun kissed coast like this will get you out of bed no matter how little sleep the night before (or how bad the resort coffee was).
What you don’t see is a glimpse into our 4 hour whale watching, sunset cruise for guests the day before the wedding. The boat was comfortable, the crew was more than accommodating, the food was delicious, the alcohol and fruit juices were prolific, the humpback whale sightings were majestic, the witnessing of flying sting rays was thrilling (who knew rays could fly!), the puffer fish feeding of leftover tortillas was amusing and the views and sea air were storybook. BUT the most memorable moment is when Bride Natalie’s mom, green with sea sickness, self-imposed a “(wo)man overboard” moment.
We had anchored for a late lunch in a small bay, and with terra firma seemingly a quick swim away, she wasn’t about to endure another 2 hours on the boat…no matter how good the fajitas were. She jumped in without life jacket or floatie and just begin to swim. A frantic husband only had a moment to put a ziplock baggie around his wallet before jumping in after her. A crew member quickly followed suit on a kayak to ensure all heads stayed above water. While it was a bit harrowing to witness, everyone got to shore okay. The ziplocked wallet proved instrumental in paying the taxi driver who finally got mom and dad of the bride back to the villa in one piece…albeit quite wet and exhausted.
Wedding Day!
Barefoot for a sunset beach wedding!
Jane and I on Pedregal Beach pre-wedding.
Off camera was the ceremony site complete with a little bar where we grabbed champagne to watch the 15 minute wedding and sunset.
Best. Wedding. Ever.
Yay, Natalie and Steve!
The mini-terminator on the chair in the photo is one of Natalie’s nephews.
**I just reread one of my Instagram stories captions from the day of wedding. It said, under a picture of the sunsetting on the beach, “I swear being at a wedding actually makes me want to be married…again. Or maybe I am just looking for an excuse to wear an over the top dress to the beach…”**
Likely the latter.
Now back to the villa for tacos, guac and margaritas!
Post Wedding Day Antics in Cabo.
Sooooo after the wedding I still had one full day in Cabo and Jane had two. As two single women we schemed that it could be fun and exciting to find dates to embark on a double date our last night together in paradise! Well, we did.
Jane’s date wasn’t available until later in the evening, so my date invited us to have a drink on his boat at sunset prior to meeting up with Jane’s date at the restaurant. We had no idea where we were going or what to expect (but don’t worry we were safe!). Turns out my date was a bit of an over achiever! His “boat” was a 135 foot super yacht and the “drink” was French champagne poured in crystal flutes etched with the emblem and name of his yacht. “Divine” wraps up the experience in one word pretty tightly.
Best ending to the Cabo leg of my trip!
Two happy friends sharing a moment, people and conversation we won’t ever forget!
Last Sunset in Cabo…for now.
The view as we left to head to dinner and to meet Jane’s lovely date (and he was lovely).
As a random aside, I had asked multiple DJs in Cabo to play the song, “Delicate” by Taylor Swift this entire trip. All refused (am I the only one confused by that?). BUT I FINALLY heard it on the radio in the car to dinner (after complaining no one would play it for me…divine intervention?). I am not sure if my date was impressed with the sing-along…but besides sitting in the captain’s chair of his yacht, it was definitely an evening highlight for me.
My “taxi” to the airport.
Since I wasn’t about to pay the ridiculous Cabo taxi fares (stupid taxi mafia in Cabo), I made an under the table deal with one of our new local friends. My last morning in Cabo he brought me to the airport bright and early for my flight to Mexico City.
The night before I had watched the sunset drinking champagne on a 135 foot super yacht. This morning I watched the sunrise drinking coffee in a green Mexican jalopy. You never know what life will bring you. *sigh*
BUT I do know it has brought me wonderful girlfriends who I not only adore and have a *great* time with, but am inspired by each time I get to share their space. Thanks Natalie and Jane for a weekend full of sun, friendship, lifelong memories and love!
TAXCO
Inspiring Women: Business Women in Family Silversmith Business, Angelica and her mom
Church of Santa Prisca in Taxco de Alarcón.
Built between 1751 – 1758.
Before I launch into my two days in Taxco, I just have one story to regale about something that passed while in the airport in Mexico City.
I hadn’t researched properly the correct bus station to leave from to get to Taxco from CDMX (Mexico City). I had thought the station was in the airport, but I was abruptly told by the ticket counter agent that the bus station I needed was in fact 20 minutes away. *Ugh*
I decided to sit for a moment to get orientated and figure out the best way to make my way to the *correct* station. Conversations in Spanish buzzed around me except for one English gentleman talking on his phone. His tone was upset and frustrated. I heard him say, “There is nothing I can do. I have no one here. I will just stay in the airport for the next 6 days.”
That seemed dramatic, so when he hung up, I asked if he was okay and if there was anything I could do to help him. He told me he was a retired doctor and in Mexico for 6 months as a volunteer to do surgeries on children with cleft palates. He had just been robbed by knife point near his hotel and all his money, credit cards and identification were gone. His passport was locked in a safe in a house near Cabo (quite far), and because his passport was not lost, his embassy would not provide a second passport nor any financial help. His banks wouldn’t send him any money as he had no identification. He did have other doctor colleagues who would be coming to CDMX, but that was 6 days in the future. Therefore his solution was to live in the airport until they arrived to collect him.
It was an interesting and daunting problem to be presented with, and no idea I came up with was a viable alternative to his idea of 6 days of bench hopping at the Benito Juarez International Airport. He also mentioned several times, between sips of a Coke, that there was nothing I could do, and then would add despondently, “I will be okay.”
I did need to move on to my next destination, but I couldn’t leave without doing something for him. I went into my purse and pulled out a 500 peso bill (~$25 USD). I told him it wasn’t a lot, but I hoped it could help a little. He lit up like a Christmas tree and told me that 500 pesos could go a long way there. He did thank me, but then almost instantaneously got up to leave. I reminded him he was going to show me where the Starbucks was (I needed the free, strong wifi to call an Uber). He did show me, but he wasn’t interested in talking anymore and even walked in front of me. “Was this a scam?”, was my first thought, “Maybe this is what he does, preys on soft-hearted, English-speaking travelers?”
I followed him with my eyes for awhile after he left. He made a phone call on his cell and then quickly disappeared from my view.
Once in my Uber I told the whole story to my poor, hostage driver (which was a brilliant way to practice of all my past tense conjugations of irregular verbs), and then asked him if he thought it was a scam or not. He told me, regardless if it was a scam, that I did the right thing because that is the type of person I am. I thought that was the best response to my ramblings. I tipped him extra through the Uber app.
Taxco is a town in the state of Guerrero, southwest of Mexico City, famed for its silver jewelry production and its white-washed, near-perfectly preserved Spanish colonial architecture.
In my past I had been to Taxco several times, but only as a day trip. This would be my first time spending 2 nights in the charming town of 50,000 souls.
I went there specifically to curate silver jewelry created by their master silversmiths for my shop. Taxco became famous for its silver when wealthy deposits were discovered there in the 16th century and then repeatedly until the early 20th century. Today they have no open mines because much of the silver is depleted yet it continues to be a capital for exceptional jewelry creation. They now get their silver from other parts of Mexico.
Some of Mexico’s finest keeping the streets of Taxco safe!
My last trip to Taxco was over 20 years ago and back then the zocalo didn’t have any presence of armed military. I asked my escort, a gentleman who worked at my hotel who was going to introduce me to a silversmith family, what had changed. He informed me it was because of the “Narcos.” In the last 15 years the state of Guerrero has become particularly unsafe due to drug trafficking. These guards were installed to keep the very-touristic town of Taxco safe and keep the Narcos at bay.
He then encouraged me to get a picture with the boys. I felt a little awkward and the guns seemed a bit intimidating, but they were quite happy to break up the days monotony posing for a picture with this American blond. They then all went in the shop next door for an ice cream cone…
Inside the home at the Villarejo Rodriguez Family!
Let the silver buying commence!
Angelica and her Mom weighing my carefully selected jewels.
It felt like a privilege to go into the home of Angelica and her mother. This is the part of my job I love most. It allows me to see a different side of a destination and get to know people I wouldn’t have the opportunity meet or to learn from otherwise.
They had a little showroom where they presented the unique pieces created by Angelica’s brothers. Her brothers had learned the trade from their now passed father, and, like Angelica, her mom (whose name I never got) now helps with sales….although had you been in the room with me, it seemed like Angelica could get a little frustrated with her mom’s help from time to time. She was always respectful, just her patience (and tone) would tend to draw thin.
One of the *spectacular* creations by Angelica’s brothers and a new acquisition for the shop!
Mission Accomplished! Next stop in my chariot – Puebla!
(Clearly there was someone in this picture not as excited to go to Puebla as me)
On the bus I sent WhatsApp messages to Angelica thanking her for her time and confirming we can do business in the future if her pieces sell well.
The answer, “Claro.”
PUEBLA
Inspiring Woman: Artisan, Noemi
The City Center of Puebla, Mexico
I originally had no intention of going to Puebla, but a Mexican friend of mine had mentioned it prior to my trip as a place I might enjoy. Looking at the map as I plotted my way to Oaxaca City from Taxco, it seemed like a good 2 night interlude between destinations. But nearly the second I arrived, I was so charmed by the well preserved Spanish colonial city, the surrounding 5 volcanos and its people, I decided to extend my stay.
The city’s historic center has been maintained so immaculately since it was founded in 1531, that it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. It is one of five most important Spanish colonial cities in Mexico.
Having coffee under an installment of “calaveras” (skulls) at my historical boutique hotel, Casa Reyna. So Mexico, right?
Besides its city center, other treasures of Puebla include its cuisine. Mole poblano is a speciality, and this ingredient rich (usually 29+) and flavor intense sauce is argued to have originated in Puebla (others say it originated in neighboring state, Oaxaca). The restaurant in my hotel was noted to have one of the best renditions.
Not being the hugest mole fan though, I took part in discovering other famed dishes of the region…
Chalupas poblanos
I still dream of these! So simple, but the mild green pepper sauce and smokey red sauce over handmade corn tortillas paired with a local white wine made me savor each flavorful bite.
The bright, cozy atmosphere at the recommended restaurant, El Mural de los Poblanos, only added to the experience. All their recipes are generations old and they source only the best of local ingredients. That was obvious in every plate I ordered. AND I am now a chalupa lover for life.
Talavera tile on the facade of buildings in the center of Puebla.
Along side its culinary history and colonial architecture, Puebla is known for its pottery too. The painted Talavera tiles adorn numerous buildings and are locally produced and painted. I even found jewelry made of the talavera tiles for the shop.
See!? Don’t you agree this town is special…and I haven’t even told you about the candy street yet!
Candy Shop, La Gran Fama
I went into La Gran Fama on a whim as it was next to the Mexican Revolution museum, and as luck would have it I learned later it was rather famous. It was the first candy shop in Puebla when it opened in the 19th century, and I thought it to be the most charming on a street lined with *many* confectionery shops (candy shops in Puebla are like Starbucks shops in Seattle).
Marzipan Roosters
Most of the candy recipes in Puebla originated from the nuns in a nearby convent (which they are apparently very tight lipped about). The marzipan that makes these colorful roosters is a secret recipe kept by La Fama. My favorite “dulce” was their rendition of the world famous “Tortitas de Santa Clara,” an irresistible shortbread cookies topped with pumpkin-flavored icing. They sell over 300 tortitas de Santa Clara everyday!
No longer at La Gran Fama, but another candy shop that had a bountiful selection of sugar skulls.
Sidetracked by a boutique….very typical.
I didn’t buy this non-edible, sweet thing, but I did end up buying two like it at the artisan market. For $2 extra they custom fit each dress for me too!
After the hard tasks of candy eating and dress shopping, the spa and pool at my hotel was in order.
The best part of my facial/massage was when my esthetician at the beginning leaned over and whispered in Spanish to breathe deeply 3 times, relax and “remember you are enough.”
What else is Puebla known for!?
The Battle of Puebla – the reason you can’t get a reservation at a Mexican restaurant in America on May 5th. Ha!
Fort Loreto – One of the Cinco de Mayo Forts of Puebla
I have always been intrigued by this battle so I spent an afternoon at Fort Loreto and Fort of Guadelupe studying the history and important players of the famous May 5, 1862 battle. The fort museums commemorate the victory of the Mexican forces in the Battle of Puebla over the battle-tested and twice as large army from France.
General Ignacio Zaragoza’s victory and defense of the twin forts in the hills above Puebla was impressive, and Mexican heritage, pride and freedom is celebrated in both forts as it explains how it kept a France who was interested in expanding and having more control in America at bay.
Well, they kept at them bay for a year. The following year Napoleon’s troops returned and had much more success. Puebla, Mexico City and other regions were taken and the French occupied parts of Mexico until Napoleon gave up his monarchal ambitions and started withdrawing forces on May 31, 1866 – a day that I don’t think there is a problem getting a reservation at Mexican restaurants.
If in Puebla, go visit…and bring a couple Tortitas de Santa de Claras for sustenance as you walk between forts.
Callejon de los Sapos or “Alley of the Frogs”
Where you go to find antiques and handicrafts…and be charmed.
Me at work!
Also pictured are artisan, Noemi, and her two kids, Ingrid and Regina.
Next to the Alley of the Frogs a weekend handicraft and antique market was being held. It was serendiptous that I found it and even more so that I was able to meet this talented artisan, Noemi. Something about her special hand beaded necklaces stood out from the rest. And after learning more about her, her family and her work, I scooped up several for the shop.
The stunning creations of Noemi
Noemi is an indigenous artisan (Otomi) who lives with her family in an isolated village about 5 hours from Puebla, Mexico. They come to Puebla every weekend to sell her handmade creations that showcase traditional Otomi beading techniques as a means to supplement her family’s income.
She doesn’t read or write in any language so after we exchanged WhatsApp information I panicked about how I would communicate with her to get more necklaces. She assured me her daughter or husband would respond in her stead. *phew*
Last meal in Puebla, Casa de los Muñecos.
I enjoyed Puebla immensly and didn’t want to leave. In fact I missed two buses that day as a passive attempt to prolong my visit. BUT I had to get to Oaxaca before it got too late in the evening.
I allowed myself one final meal at this well regarded, talavera clad restaurant, and then it was time to get serious about the 4.5 hour trip to one of my favorite cities in Mexico.
Onward to Oaxaca City.
Part of my Puebla haul!
Another example of beautiful beadwork creations from Puebla.
Thanks, Noemi, for helping me better appreciate the work and the tradition of the intricate and colorful pieces that come from your region. It was a pleasure to support you, your family. I look forward to the tradition continueing through your daughters (and lets hope they read this to you :).
OAXACA CITY
Inspiring Woman: Artisan and Silversmith, Flor
A return to the handsome and colorful streets of Oaxaca City Center, another UNESCO World Heritage city!
I was last here in 2014.
…and like its name suggests, this bustling, cheap and cheerful restaurant was just that.
Oaxaca City has a celebrated food scene and despite my late arrival, I wasn’t going to miss a meal in this culinary capital of Mexico. My hotel receptionist suggested I go to check out one of his favorite restaurants, La Popular, so I cleaned up quickly and set course. After a few wrong turns, and multiple, “Sabe Ud. donde esta La Popular?,” I arrived.
It was “llena“…very full. I scanned the room and saw two options; a single European man sitting by himself at a table for 4 or a dark, dreary table set way in the back near the kitchen. I asked the server in what I thought was perfect Spanish if I could sit at the “solo” man’s table. Seemed like a win-win, they would still have an open table and I would have the possibility of interesting dinner conversation. She looked at me like I was a little crazy and told me that wasn’t an option. Something about a group coming too…so pouting a bit I said, “Fine, I will sit there in the dark.”
I tried not to be crabby as I sat completely isolated from the bustle of the restaurant watching cockroaches run up the wall and constantly being brushed by the servers as the squeezed by me going to and from the kitchen. *Ugh* Well, at least the recommended shrimp dish will be good, I thought. And while the flavor was good, the shrimp were nearly impossible to extract from their shells. Normally not a big deal, but alone in the dark and feeling ignored I decided to complain to the server. Ridiculous, I know. And she thought the same because I got the same look as before when I asked if I could sit with the European guy, but this time she added, “Well, do you want to order something else then?” No. I want to be a martyr.
At some point between the arduous task of extracting the shrimp from the shell and actually eating it, I had a talk with myself. My frame of mind was likely being reflected in my countenance which likely isolated me more than the placement of my horrible table. I made the decision to reflect on the big picture. I was in a town I loved, speaking a language I loved and in the kind of climate I loved. AND I did have guacamole in front of me. Nothing is ever so bad if guacamole is near.
I finished my meal with a slight smile on my face, and headed outside to take pictures of the full moon.
After the pictures, I rounded the corner to start my walk home. I was a few meters from the restaurant when someone started to call for me. Bracing the straps of my crossover bag I turned around to a young Mexican man. Noticing my body language and cautious stare, he immediately took a few steps back and said, “Hi, I am not trying to rob you. I just wanted to say hi.”
His genuineness and probably the fact that he was eating an orange at 11pm at night, helped put me at ease. We engaged friendly conversation on the street for about 10 minutes until he asked me if I would be interested in joining him for a drink.
“Yes, I would like that very much, and thank your for asking me,” was the response from this dinner-conversation-deprived visiting American.
We headed down the street and allowed the night to continue there.
I learned over my mixed drink that incorporated the smokey-flavored mezcal of the region, that I had caught my companion’s eye as he was dining that evening at La Popular too. The “mysterious” blond alone in the dark with “profondo” eyes captured his imagination. He had to meet me.
We dined together the rest of my evenings in Oaxaca.
I guess that dreary, hidden table and combat with my shrimp all night turned out for my benefit! In fact, I may now always opt for the worst table in the house and pray the shrimp are difficult to remove from their shells…especially if the sacrifice results in another such experience with another such special human whose impression will last a lifetime.
While in Oaxaca City I stayed at Hotel con Corazon, part of their proceeds go to help local kids get education.
They also have a brilliant chef who makes delicious regional dishes for breakfast every morning (which is included). Stay there!
The Lunar Eclipse of January 2019.
Photo credit to my friend, Diane Medved.
I witnessed my first lunar eclipse and blood moon while in Oaxaca. To say it was remarkable would be an understatement. However, my company and our vantage from a viewpoint above the city likely added to the mystic and magic of this astromonical marvel.
Artisan, Flor, telling her attack dog to behave himself around me :).
Like my last visit to Oaxaca, my objective was to find jewels for the shop. I targeted this state because Frida Kahlo, the famous Mexican painter, adopted her style, the traditional Tehuana attire, from a specific region of Oaxaca. She did so as a means of showing solidarity with the strong women of their matriarchal Zapotec society (her mother was also from this region).
I went to find pieces that were inspired by Frida or representative of what she may have worn.
I first met Flor and saw her exquisite creations in the center of Oaxaca. I immediately expressed interest in her work, and after we got to know each other she invited me to her home the next day to see more, an offer that almost made me giddy.
Demo time!
It took about 20 minutes to weave up into the nearby mountains to get to Flor’s home which made her work already even more precious to me. We descended a steep, dirt path (without twisting an ankle) to arrive at her front yard. Dogs, young children on bikes, chickens and chaos all greeted us.
Flor got me settled and then gave a demonstration on how she makes her silver jewelry. Her pieces use silver molds made by pouring molten silver into primitive casts made from dirt and car oil. The casts are imprinted with the forms of the original, vintage molds that were created by her parents, who were also her teachers. She then embellishes or elaborates them with semi-precious stones or bead work.
Frida would have loved every piece Flor made!
A modest work environment that results in magnificent works of wearable art.
I would have liked to have taken home that mirror too…
Another Demo!
Flor had her son, Cristoffe, show me how to clean silver filigree with a toothbrush and powder laundry detergent. Hmmm…
Business complete and a new friendship and partnership solidified!
This is just one of the beautiful new acquisitions by Flor in the shop.
…and now back UP the treacherous path with new treasures in tow. Time to get me back to the center of Oaxaca.
Her son, Cristoffe, took us part way in his tuk tuk-like motocab. This type of transport isn’t allowed in the center of town, so for the second leg we took the public bus.
After our “despedidas” and we walked in separate directions, I am pretty sure we both felt lucky to have met the other…one of life’s serendipities.
Telesfora, my healer, during my day of healing in the Sierre Nortes.
Sooooo not to get too personal here on my personal blog (Ha!), but I experienced a small trauma related to a past love prior to my arrival in Mexico. The only reason a *past* relationship mattered in this instance was because of the unorthodox, secretive and less than honest way he exited our relationship more than 18 months prior. Having no clarity, no closure and no communication about the end of a relationship that at one point was *very* important in my life caused immense confusion and an internal torment that I thought would never cease.
Clarity did come a few days before my departure, not from him but through others. And while I may have finally gotten the understanding that I needed, I can’t say it felt good nor was it good for my feelings of self-worth.
Soldiering on but still not fully healed, I started my trip to Mexico. Once in Oaxaca, I already knew I wanted to do a day tour with a company owned by a friend of mine, Eric of Zapotrek, but which one would I chose? When I checked out the choices I found his cultural tour entitled “A Healing Experience – Temazcal and Tradional Medicine.” Ah! Exactly what I needed.
Me after my “limpia” which included being beaten with local flora by Telesflora and an egg cleansing of my bad energy.
People from all over the world come to this small community in the Sierre Nortes for the healing properties of the local herbs, the ancient traditional medicine practices of the Zapotec culture and the healing skills of the shaman-like practitioners.
My needs weren’t health related but I am sure I came with the same aspirations as anyone with any chronic disorder.
Since I speak Spanish I was left alone with the healer, Telesflora, as she performed her ritual on me in a spare bedroom in her daughter’s home. I was first told to stand as she took her bundle of carefully picked flowers and bush branches and gently started pelting me. There was some chanting and some random story telling (she regaled her last trip to Washington D.C. to me). I just stood there taking in every moment…depsite my skin getting a little itchy from the small welts and errant leaves and petals all over my body.
At the end of the first step of the cleansing and before sitting down for my egg cleansing, she told me a few things 1) I am better off alone 2) to wear red underwear and wear it inside-out to protect myself from evil energy and 3) the picture on the wall was of her daughter.
Oxen plowing a potato field outside the home where I did my cleansing. The valley below is where Oaxaca City lies.
The second part of my cleansing was having Telesflora use an egg to pull bad energy from my body and then “read” the yolk (the idea is that something “alive” has to be sacrificed to remove the negative energy…the innocent egg was the sacrifice).
For the reading of my yolk, Eric was called into the room to make sure I understood the intricacies of what Telesflora saw. The egg was cracked in front of me and put in a jar. Telesflora noted the opaque color of the egg white which indicated the negative energy it pulled out. There was a bit of pause because my yolk had broke, which was unusual for sure, but was attributed to all of my travel. It likely broke because of all the negative energy I have been exposed to around the world during my travels. She then went on to read the bubbles. These represented the more intense negative energies that were extracted. Some bubbles had surfaced to the top and then there was a large one hovering above the broken yolk. That one, she commented, was because of a recent trauma I had endured. I didn’t have to think too hard to know what trauma she she was referring to.
It was prescribed that I do more egg cleansings on my own…at least three as there was still more bad energy to extract. I haven’t done them to date…mostly because I don’t know how to reach my back by myself. However, I did buy a red string bracelet that I wear daily (with a little silver crown on it). I was told it is just as powerful as inside-out underwear.
The second part of the cleansing – the sweat lodge or “temazcal”.
The sweat lodge involved more pelting with branches by a healer or “temazcalera”, but this time I was in a small steam heated brick igloo and I was naked.
Headed into that little, hot space…
Our temazcalera, Soledad, had been stoking the fire all day to make sure our sweat lodge was the perfect temperature. And it was, but because heat rises and I was laying on the ground next to the cloth covered opening, Soledad would have to intermittently use a fan to bring the steam down from the ceiling.
Between that effort and all the beating with branches, she worked hard. AND she was covered from head to foot in multiple layers of robes, hats and a face mask.
I did note that when she left another guest in there to just “soak,” she came out and laid limp on the mat in front of the opening. I completely understood.
How my body looked after my first Temazcal!
I appreciated the entire unique experience and left feeling revitalized and purified at some level and completely exhausted on another.
Did the day have the miraculous heart healing effects that I deep down was hoping for? That I can’t say. But I can say that by the time I left Oaxaca I was well on my way…so perhaps that in part can be owed to Telesflora, Soledad, my sacrificed egg and all those branch-beating imposed welts on my body.
Oaxaca City near Sunset.
Headed out on my last night to have my last dinner and last good-bye.
Last time I was in Oaxaca I was most captivated by the things to do there, but this time the most impressionable, meaningful experience in Oaxaca…in Mexico…probably the last 18 months of my life…was the young man who stopped me in the street my first night.
Writing about him is in part therapy for me because I want to acknowledge “out loud” how simply being with him, even for such a short period of time, helped me feel whole and normal again. I want to thank him too. And because we don’t have contact anymore *sniff*, this is a way of hoping my gratitude will find him.
He helped show me that I can enjoy, admire, be excited to see and have interesting conversation with a man again. In turn, he made to feel interesting, beautiful, cared for and appreciated too. It seems so small, right? But I *really* felt after such a devastating and prolonged heartbreak I didn’t have the capacity to feel anything for anyone again. But then God inserted Pablo to show me I was wrong…but what is new.
Like I said in the beginning, this romance doesn’t have a “ride off in the sunset together” ending, and I can’t say that was easy either. But clearly the lesson was that I am meant to and *can* love again, and that I look forward to immensely.
JUCHITAN
Inspiring Women: All the Women of this Matriarchal Society
The earthquake damaged market in the center of Juchitan
This town is definitely off the beaten path, but my quest for the best hand made jewelry in Mexico brought me here. Along with its matriarchal society, this indigenous town in the southeast of the Mexican state of Oaxaca is well known for its vibrant Tehuana traditional dress and gold gilded filigree jewelry.
It is also the precise part of Oaxaca in the Isthmus of Tehuantepec where Frida Kahlo found so much inspiration for her style and her signature look.
Traditional Tehuana dress of the region – Lace veil and intricately embroidered huipils and skirts.
The girls I was looking for in the market!
While I have never been to Juchitan before, I have done business with these young ladies through a third party helper (surrogates who shop for me for the shop :). It was so great to meet them in person and buy all that I could carry from them and their artisans to bring back home with me for the shop.
As of recent and due to the earthquake that devastated Juchitan back in September of 2017, it has been hard to keep the filigree earrings in stock. Many of the artisans who create these intricate and traditional treasures have stopped making jewelry as their man/woman power has been required to help rebuild the town. However, this should start changing now that much of the city has been repaired.
Some of the strong women of Juchitan.
I could do a whole dissertation on the matriarchal society of Juchitan. It is fascinating, and so different from the “machismo” stereotype that can get associated with conservative Mexican society.
In short though, unlike many other women in Mexico, the women of Juchitan and the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, are typically the purse bearers. Because of the popularity of the Tehuana “traje” (dress), they are able to make good money selling their traditional textiles. As the breadwinners, they are financially independent so marriage is not a necessity and divorce is achievable. The men afford the women high respect for this reason and the result is a much fairer society than in most of the rest of modern Mexico. There is even a much celebrated third gender, muxe, who are largely speaking biological men who identify as female or feminine, dressing in the same vibrant traditional dress as the other women. In fact I bought my own Tehuana dress from a muxe!
My friend, Shalia, in her Tehuana wedding dress.
While in Juchitan I met up with a woman whom I was introduced to through my friend Eric in Oaxaca City. She works with a co-op of women who make traditional Tehuana dresses, and Eric thought she would be a great contact for me. He was right!
Shalia and I hit it off immediately. And before we headed to dinner, she brought me back to her home to show me her recent wedding pictures. They were stunning and the amount of color was breathtaking.
As a side note, while Shalia is a newly wed, she had no hesitation in telling me that if her husband doesn’t work hard and contribute equally to the partnership, she has no qualms about moving on.
The church in Juchitan where Shalia was married…still in disrepair from the earthquake.
Shalia and me at dinner!
It was only men serving us in this quaint restaurant…he he….when in Juchitan.
Tlayudas!
A specialty in Juchitan.
Shalia’s husband picked us up and brought me back to the hotel. Apparently night time in Juchitan can get a little rough…even in all its matriarchal splendor.
Shalia and I agreed to stay in touch. She has many artisan friends who would love to get me the filigree earrings that I and my customers so long for. Its a win, win, win.
The next morning it was a very early flight to Mexico City so I could catch my plane home the following day.
Frida always inspires me!
This was my last personal acquisition in Mexico City before it was time to return to “mi casa”.
Sunset on Cabo…and this blog! *Phew*
*Wow* Thanks for enduring this epic length memoire of my trip to Mexico with me.
But what a trip and what *remarkable* people who shaped my experiences and memories along the way.
*Especially* the women who inspired me at every turn with their unique presence, creativity and strength
and
that one man who inspired me to love again.
This is why I travel.
#VivaMexico
The treasures I curated from Mexico you can find in my SHOP HERE.
AND the below photo is of me back home in the Tehuana dress I bought in Juchitan!
