“Welcome to the Happiest Country of the World!,” said the sign that greeted me in the San Jose airport.  And since I am returning to Costa Rica after nearly 15 years, I consider myself one of the happiest people “of the World!”  Looks like this might be a feliz filled 8 days! Vamos!

Me back in Costa Rica a few life experiences and smile lines later!

San Jose’s airport is more like a sparkling spaceship now versus the open-aired, cream colored, concrete rectangle I arrived at as a Rotary Ambassadorial Scholar back in 1998.  No more geckos line the ceiling and the humidity factor is decidedly lower with the AC.  All the big screen T.V.s that lined Customs’ walls might have made me forget I was in an underdeveloped country had they not said, “Bienvenido a Costa Rica.” I suppose we all change in 15 years.

Although Costa Rica hails no army, there was an army of taxi drivers who accosted me once outside the airport walls. I used one finger to motion, “No” (a signal I learned here from the Ticos) and looked for the sign with my name. Once Manuel found me I was off to my B&B!

Flor de Cana – my favorite rum from Nicaragua – and Coca!

Since I was not going to spend my first night in San Jose in my room, my considerate and concerned B&B host, Ric from Texas, escorted me for a night out.  San Jose has grown more dangerous over the years (drugs being a big problem in recent times), and instead of insisting I stay home, he graciously offered to take me to one of his friend’s bars….in the Zona Roja :). But I admit addiction to any kind of drug is highly dangerous. Hence, you can consult experts from residential alcoholism treatment clinic to overcome drug addiction.

Prostitution is legal here, and the sex industry thrives. Frankly my first re-taste of Costa Rica was less the storybook fantasy of colorful butterflies, toucans and sun-kissed beaches and more the hardened, unromantic world of its underbelly.

Had I gone to the bar Ric brought me to on a Saturday, I would have enjoyed a completely naked male dancer finish his routine with a lovely, personal send-off into the crowd. But being there on a Wednesday, I instead enjoyed the company of a local lady of the night named, Rachel.

“F*cking no me interesa,” she said to me with stone cold eyes…and then tried to kiss me. Bizarre.  After that she bought me a drink. More bizarre. Did she see me as another woman or potential client?  Our relationship never matured enough for me to find out because once the owner left (the man she was there with and Ric’s friend) without saying good-bye, she went into complete crying hysterics and marched out with mascara running down her face (Her ride home? Unpaid client? I never found out.). She had spent the night telling me how much she hated men, and apparently here was yet another reason for her to mistrust them so.  Legal or not, there is no dignity in such a profession.  Welcome back to Costa Rica, Jen.

Gallo Pinto for breakfast!

Gallo Pinto made by Ric’s Nicaraguan cook and house cleaner, Irma, helped neutralize the sour taste in my mouth left by the unsavory encounters of the previous night. It was delicious! There is an ongoing controversy between Costa Rica and Nicaragua as to who invented the staple bean and rice dish of both countries.  Although I doubt it will ever be solved, I felt that having a Nica cook make my gallo pinto in Costa Rica was experiencing the best of both worlds.  Best breakfast so far.

Museo de Arte Costariccense – Free Museum!

My second day in San Jose proved to be a bit more of what I remembered, lots of walking and busy, car-filled streets.  I spent the day just re-exploring the city I once called home.

The Salon Dorado in the Museo de Arte Costariccense (which use to be the old airport terminal in San Jose).

This 150 meter mural is of the history of Costa Rica and was constructed in 1939-1940 by French sculptor, Louis Féron. Magnificent.

Avenida Central in downtown Costa Rica.

Avenida Central in el centro of San José is rich in shoe stores and police. If someone stole my shoes, I was covered regardless of outcome.

Antijoto! Tortilla de Queso.

Break time was indulging in one of these typical Costa Rican delights – Tortilla de Queso – at the Mercado Central.  I had a very tipica Coca Cola with mine.

Masks from Costa Rica’s Indigenous Brunka tribe.

A stay in San Jose is not complete for me without a stop to the Costa Rica’s best gallery for local and regional art, Galería Namu. These masks are just a sample of the intricate works found at this gallery that opened its doors the same time I studied here.  The gallery owner, Aisling French, was an inspiration to me when I met her 15 years ago…and has continued to be over the years.  I can soundly say she was one of the first to plant the seed of desire in me to create the kind of shop I have today. I will be acquiring a few pieces from her gallery for my shop! Kinda a dream come true.

So much walking called for a glass of wine and a little research on my next stop, Manuel Antonio, on the Pacific coast of the country.  This Argentinian chardonnay hit the spot and the ambiance at Cafe Mundo got me energized to hike back to the bus station to catch a bus back home.  San Jose drained me.

Thankfully my next breakfast is here….

My next post will be from the lush rain forest which means it will include more pics of monkeys (and not just the blond in the first photo 🙂 je je), sloths and beach dwelling animals.

In the meantime, Pura Vida…and more arabica coffee por favor!