My quartier is becoming a ghost town as all my chic, well-healed neighbors head out to find sand and sun. Apartment shutters are closed tight. Store fronts are locked down with just a note on the window detailing their réouverture. The vacations of August are upon us. This is one of my favorite times in Paris. Sure my preferred pâtisserie is closed until the le 20 aout, but putting that aside, August makes me feel like I get to have Paris to myself…as long as I stay away from the herds of tourists along the Seine.
Paris Plage
One of the great August phenomenas here in Paris. Tons of sand, palm trees and umbrellas are arranged au bord de la Seine to make those poor Parisiens who have to stay in town feel as if they have the Cote d’Azur in their backyard. It is charming in its bizarreness.
This August as most of Paris rests and recuperates somewhere outside her peripherique, I find that I have been doing a lot of reflecting inside. I suppose it is natural given I am reaching the end of my current stay in this fair city. In a few short months, I will be moving beyond the borders I have fallen in love with to return to my native land. I admit I do get sad to think of it…really sad. I have found a lot of happiness here and I feel at home. But since I am not one who likes to dwell long on things that make me frown, I focus on the moments, the people and the aspects of every day life that have delighted me and continue to. Le Bonheur abounds in Paris…
The view from my table at a café terrace in Place de La Contrescapre.
As I write, I look up and view this quaint place in the 5eme. Hemingway’s first home in Paris is a few meters down the cobble stone street to my left and pretty little brown birds keep perching on the table to my right. I am waiting for a friend to join me. I did not know this friend 8 months ago, but he has since become a dear addition to my life. This is also true of other new friends I have met here in France. In this respect, Paris has not only nourished me with her cream sauces and flaky pastries, but also through complicity and connections with others that I believe will last a lifetime. Le Bonheur.
Sunset over Paris
I captured this on my way home from one of my regular wine tasting classes (Champagne was the subject that evening!). The class is taught by an American who has lived in Paris for 12 years. He is the most knowledgeable person on the grape I have ever met, but his true talent is in his ability to instruct. In class we don’t just swirl, sniff and swallow. We are taught to make each glass a sensuous experience. Treat it as if it is someone you love. Take time to discover the different fragrance notes, hold the wine on your palate until “it has nothing left to say,” taste and feel the finish in your mouth. He weaves art, history, culture and a incredible sense of humor into each lesson and gives us the tools to recall characteristics of the wine the next time we try it. If it isn’t obvious, I have a bit of a crush on the instructor 🙂 (lucky for me I recently met his lovely girlfriend). During my last class I was able to toast Tom, and share my appreciation of him. Le Bonheur.
Le 14 Julliet, 2012
This photo was taken by my friend, Antoine. Together we watched the Bastille Day fireworks from the 26th floor of Montparnasse tower. I was touched that he asked me to witness something so incredible with him. To thank him, I made a roasted chicken dinner at my house. It was meant to be eaten before the fireworks, but due to traffic problems that caused him to be late, we had to eat afterwards. This meant my little bird sat in the oven much longer than she liked and dried up a bit. However, bubbly beverages, delicious roasted potatoes, memories of a spectacular evening and conversation about dating between cultures overshadowed my chalky chicken. Le Bonheur.
Regarde le Ciel…Look at the sky…
I see these words in the most curious places around Paris. They are written on sidewalks and walls, in the middle of the street, over construction sites, on building facades. I don’t know who writes them or why, but I like to see the pretty cursive graffiti. Each time I do, I follow its instructions and turn my eyes upwards, passing over the running balconies and Haussmanian rooftops to regard the heavens above. Sometimes it is a radiant blue, a lot of times it is grey, but each time I thank God for being under it, for being in Paris, for all my blessings in this life and for Le Bonheur.
The day before I left for Paris, I quoted Hemingway in my final blog from the US. I wrote:
Il n’y a que deux endroits au monde où l’on puisse vivre heureux: chez soi et à Paris.
(There are only two places in the world where we can live happy: at home and in Paris.)
-Ernest Hemingway
And then followed it with:
Let’s go find out!
Today, I can say without doubt that Hemingway was spot on.
Oh, my friend arrives now….Le Bonheur.
The real Cote d’Azur!
Bien sûr, Le Bonheur! 🙂
