So, as expected, my boss is pretty upset with me that I didn’t get this follow-up post published sooner…phfff….pero mejor tarde que nunca. Oops, wrong language! In trouble again! But you get the picture…here goes:
Time, not absence, makes the heart grow fonder. And the title of this blog should really be called, “I Double Heart Burgundy!” because that is what happened the second full day….my love for this beautiful part of France grew x 2!
Beaune on Saturday Morning
Saturday morning is also market day.
Market fresh jewels….
After picking-up some saucisson de canard et sanglier at the marché and a torchon for my mom (not a surprise anymore), Naomi and I took to perusing the brocante stands. The perplexed look on my face is the result of the vendor’s explanation of the mini Napoleonic ink well I hold in my hand. Clearly I had never seen one before.
Darn charming details of Beaune…
…and more!
Hôtel-Dieu de Beaune
After the wine caves, the Hospices de Beaune (or Hôtel-Dieu) is Beaune’s second favorite tourist distraction. So we, of course, checked it out.
Founded in 1443 as a hospital for the poor and needy, the Hospices is one of France’s oldest examples of philanthropic heritage as well as one of the finest examples of French fifteenth-century architecture.
The polychrome roof is a distinctive detail in the medieval town.
The Room of the Poors
From the Middle Ages through today, the disabled, sick, elderly, orphaned, destitute and women about to give birth have all been uninterruptedly welcomed to the Hospices de Beaune for treatment and refuge. Services for current patients are now provided in modern hospital buildings.
Good Wine. Caring People. What else is there?
There is biking!
The quintessential wine country experience… biking through the vineyards!
This is Naomi and me finding our velo legs :). Our tour started coincidentally the same day as the much more hyped Tour de France. Ours concluded 3 hours and 15 kilometers later with much less fanfare and much more panting.
My Partners in Biking!
Naomi and James
The town of Pommard as seen from our bike route.
The route we followed was designated only for bikers and vehicles working the vignobles.
The route to the town of Volnay.
The hill doesn’t look much in this picture, but let me tell you, it was h*ll. 🙂
Success!
Although it is only me in this picture, all three of us made it to our destination town, Meursault.
Meursault is the most famous and popular of the great white appellations in Bourgogne. However, I can only tell you that they serve a bien froid Orangina in town. Heat plus hills made our stop in the quaint village center more about rehydration than experiencing the fruits of the region.
All that biking worked up quite an appetite! So after showering and some coiffing, we headed to the 3 Michelen star gastronomic restaurant, Maison LaMeloise. As I learned from James, there are only 106 3* restaus worldwide. This one is situated in the village of Chagny (population 5300), south of Beaune.
After a champagne apero in the lounge we were escorted into one of the 5 cozy dining rooms in the 15th century carriage house inn. Nestled into our red leather chairs, we began an immaculately presented 7 course feast. Lobster and crab (seen above) are always a nice start to any meal.
The pitch perfect pork plat.
And armed with new wine knowledge, thanks to our time with Brendan the day before, James expertly paired local wines of Bourgogne to our meal.
No meal in France, 3* or not, is complete without the cheese course. As you can note from the picture, at LaMeloise this course can be a harrowing part of the evening for the less decisive.
Thankfully at dessert time, no desicion making was required. We could eat one of each. The only problem was finding room in our happy bellies.
So there you have it. Bourgogne. After 3 days it captured the #2 spot on my Favorites in France list (Paris is #1, but you knew that). I loved the simple beauty of the region, the intimate feeling of the family wineries, the connection I felt to the terroir and the people who cultivated it, the creativity of the cuisine and, of course, the wine. C’est vrai, I Double Heart Burgundy!
(although I didn’t double heart my sore derierre the day after our biking escapade!)
Also, double thanks to Angela, Naomi and James for making my time there so memorable!!
I’m so happy I remembered NOT to read your blog before I eat. As always great adventures with amazing food! I’m saving all your post and putting them in a “bucket list” to do soon! And please tell your boss “Por favor deje a Jennifer escribir en Espanol! Gracias”
Where are you taking us next? Can’t wait!