Life tends to be full of surprises. If one month ago you would have asked me if I was planning a trip to Copenhagen, Denmark, the answer would have been most assuredly, “No.” If you would have told me that I would be eating at the crown jewel of the culinary world and declared best restaurant anywhere, Noma, I would have coyly smiled, looked at you sideways and promptly changed the subject. BUT this past weekend that is EXACTLY what I did! I went to Copenhagen under the sole pretext to dine at “The World’s Best Restaurant.” Who doesn’t need a little decadence in her life from time to time? 🙂
The opportunity was presented to me by an American girlfriend here in Paris, Kelly. She had spent many months trying to get these coveted reservations via public channels (calling 3 months in advance when the reservation books opened up while tightly crossing her fingers), but she was never successful. Between 20,000 – 100,000 people vie for a spot at this cozy 12 table restaurant each month, so getting a reservation is a bit like finding a Dane who isn’t up for a beer at 10am….impossible! But thanks to her American stick-to-itiveness and resourcefulness, she reached out to a friend whose husband had connections to the chef…et voila! C’est fait! Her next order of business was finding a dining companion. That is where I came in. After a quick trip to the Easyjet website, I became her thankful and lucky companion on this foodie pilgrimage.
As to not spoil the surprise or set expectations too high of my dining experience at the 2 star Michelin resto, I tried to limit my research prior to arrival. However, I couldn’t go in completely blind, so here are a few of the fun details I knew when I walked through Noma’s doors for our 8:30pm reservation last Thursday night:
1) The cuisine would be nordic, but nordic with a twist. All plates would be prepared with local, fresh ingredients…some foraged by the restaurant’s “foraging team” who scour Denmark’s hidden pockets of forest and coastline for exotic edibles. Most plates presented would require laborious preparation.
2) We would be served a minimum of 20 plates!
3) Chef Redzepi, who has worked in other great restaurants like French Laundry and El Bulli, is known for incredibly inventive cuisine and he likes clean flavors. He was born in Copenhagen.
4) And, of course, I would be spending a small fortune!
True to the Danish sense of style, the interior of Noma was minimalistic but charming and cozy. Exposed, grey wood beams in the ceiling gave the dining room a rustic feeling, but the dancing candle light and fresh flowers highlighted the room’s understated elegance. However, the biggest impression at first sight was the inviting, smiling and friendly staff! When Kelly and I walked in we were greeted so warmly by everyone. It also didn’t hurt that each one was shiny faced, young and quite attractive…taking off my coat took longer than it should as I was dizzy from seeing half the sous chefs in the kitchen!
Once placed at the table created just for us (our table facing the kitchen was not one that they usually had in place each night) and the champagne poured, the onslaught of the first 14 plates commenced. Our premier starter was hidden in the flower arrangement. If you look closely at the above photo you will see a twig. The twig is actually “malt flatbread” with dried juniper on it to make it look very realistic. The moment I plucked it from our table decor, I knew this would be like no other dining experience I have ever had.
Moss and Mussels!
We really ate moss! It was fried and somehow a delicate flavor of mushroom was imbibed into it. The presentation, served on a bed of green moss and white stone, was spectacular.
On the mussel tray, we had to “hunt” for the edible mussel with a creamy celery filling.
Dried Carrot and Sorrel in the foreground and behind it Rye, Chicken Skin and Lumpfish Roe on the marble platter.
In the background of this picture you also get a good glimpse of our attentive and adorable wait staff and chefs. Each of whom absolutely loved their job.
Note: Per the pictures it may look like we weren’t drinking much of our champagne as the amount in the glass appears to be the same from photo to photo…but that would be a false assumption. No, these glasses of champagne were bottomless! The minute they were looking a bit empty, our happy server came to fill them up again! Magic really!
Pickled and Smoked Quail eggs…served in a bed of “award winning” hay. When the egg container was opened a light cloud of smoke wafted from the hay nest. Fantastic!
Radish and Baby Carrot in Soil and Grass!
This was one of my favorite starter dishes. Kelly and I each got to harvest our veggies from the potted garden. The fresh radish and carrot came out covered in “soil”, dark roasted hazelnuts, and “grass”, a green pesto. Delicious and delightful.
Eberskivel and Muikku
Cute, huh? Well, these little guys made me emit a small squawk when placed on the table. I thought they were turtles! But, alas, I had nothing to fear. They were just delicious mini whitefish that decorated an even more delicious eberskivel. The savory eberskivel’s flavor finished in my mouth with the slightest hint of sweetness. Perfection really.
The Highlight of the Night…the Bread!
I don’t think it is a mystery at this point that I love me some good bread! And “The Best Restaurant in the World” definitely did not disappoint. In fact, dare I say, it was the best bread I have ever tasted…and that is something coming from a woman who lives in the land of the baguette. This sourdough wheat loaf was made solely for Noma, and clearly with lots of love. The crust was a dream as it cracked and flaked on my plate and in my mouth. It was presented to us slightly warm which made the homemade butter melt into its delicate porous and soft center. Oh! *sigh* I just opened the Easyjet website. Must. Go. Back. For. More.
Focus, Jen! SO after the 14 small plates finished and the bread was presented, 8 plates of main course dishes and 2 dessert dishes started to be served. I think it is important to point out at this point that because the flavors during this experience were so different, so unlike anything my taste buds had the pleasure of knowing before, it was hard to determine if I was actually liking my meal. Sure the presentation, the ingredients and the atmosphere was amazing, but were all 5 of my senses fully appreciating the uniqueness of this moment. Or was it only 4?
Kelly, the Hen and the Egg
Fresh peas and fermented peas, Razor clam and parsley, Dried scallop and beech nuts….these were some of the creative creations that continued to be paraded out to us. French wines were paired with most all dishes.
One of the signature dishes at Noma is “The Hen and the Egg.” We were presented a super hot skillet and an egg on a bed of sweet hay and then instructed to crack our egg and cook it on the skillet. Next followed a myriad of instructions about adding different herbs, sauces, butter, etc., but, frankly, after the bottomless glass of champagne and 6 wine pairings it all seemed a bit overwhelming. 🙂 However, I do remember it was delicious and the best flavor combination I ate all night.
The Hen and the Egg prior to consumption!
Dessert!
It was called “Pear tree” because their was clearly a pear on the plate, but also because the green spongy cake like item (which sort of melted when it hit my tongue) tasted like a pine tree!
After dinner with French-pressed coffee in the lounge.
Kelly was most grateful that in this room we actually got chocolate :)…so was I.
Kelly and I were the last guests to leave Noma. With lingering pine-needle flavors on our palate and a souvenir menu in our purses, we said our good-byes and exited the front doors content and all abuzz about the unforgettable meal we shared together.
It is true that my pocket book was definitely a lot lighter on the walk back to the hotel. But having been inspired by the best of their trade, traveled to see a beautiful Scandinavian city and shared a memorable evening with a wonderful new friend, I only felt enriched. Thank goodness for life’s surprises.
Out and About in Copenhagen…
After the climatic first evening at Noma, I spent two more days in Copenhagen. Here are a few of the sites I saw:
Changing of the guard at the palace….
Climbed to the top of Church of Our Saviour….
View from the top of the Church of Our Saviour (400 Steps! Phew!)…
The iconic statue of Copenhagen, The Little Mermaid….
Danish Pastries….
Copenhagen’s “Free Town,” Christiania (read “free” as free to buy drugs…but it is also independent from Copenhagen)…
…and my favorite spot of all, Nyhavn.
Oh, and if you are wondering, I have determined that all 5 of my senses did come to fully appreciate my meal at Noma…just not so sure if I will be ordering anything with pine needles again anytime soon. 🙂
Kisses to Kopenhagen!
Plan YOUR Adventure: Here is a link for more information on Noma’s status as “The World’s Best Restaurant”: http://www.theworlds50best.com/awards/1-50-winners/
I loved all the tips and photos… amazing !!!! go girl !!!
Muwah! So happy you enjoyed it! Miss you!
I love your 4th degree
That means a lot coming from a “Lord” :).